More On Winter Clothing

Carrying on from my last post about clothing and winter protection I'll continue the journey down from the head. The assumption is that I'll be getting out again before winter disappears.

Hats are no real problem. I bought the splendid possum fur/merino wool hat from Mears last year and it's absolutely great especially during the evenings around the fire. During the day, I prefer a peak, therefore I'll use my standard cap or a "Millets special" fleece lined cap with ear covers that I've had for a couple of years.

As last year (and the years before that) I'll continue the tried and tested method of layering. Last year I bought a WoolPower 200grm base-layer and that was a huge success for me. It was generally quite mild last year in the UK but even so, the temperature went down to -4C on one or two occasions while overnighting and I was grateful for the protection this garment gave me. The merino wool is designed to wick away sweat, which it does. The mid-layer is a reasonable quality thin fleece with the standard Swaandri on top of that. My Swaani is an older button up version. I'm tempted by Bison's Field Shirt which have received great reviews, but unfortunately at £75, I can't justify the cost when I've still got a servicable Swaandri.

 

The top layer will either be my SASS smock (don't be put off by the name; it's ventile (close weave cotton) in all but name and has nothing to do with the military) or my old, battered, trusted and favourite wax jacket. I bet I know what I'll revert to as the winter progresses!

I have a pair of Peter Storm Long Johns (WoolPower also do nice leggings) and didn't even put these on last year, so I'll stick with these just in case the temperature drops significantly and put some thicker surplus trousers over the top. But here's another solution for base-layer leg-wear. Ladies tights. Ask any self respecting infantryman and he will (in private) tell you that he has worn ladies tights or at least packed them in his bag at some stage during winter exercises.

During track and field training (many moons ago) us sprinters used these garments to great effect when training during the winter months to protect the delicate fast-twitch muscle fibres. So, come on guys; don't be shy...I won't tell if you won't! Just say, "They're for the wife" in the lingerie shop and ignore the all-knowing look from the shop assistant; or alternatively, raid the washing machine and blame it on the "sock-eating monster!" Stay away from fish-nets for obvious reasons. By the way, ladies tights make an excellent water filter and you can extend the life of premacs by quite a few uses.

Gloves are particularly important to me as I suffer from cold extremities. I picked up two pairs of Thinsulate fingerless gloves last year for £5-00 at the local market and I have seen them on Ebay for not much more. They are great for providing warmth but tend to fray quickly if you're working with wood. They are also a bit slippery if using tools. In this case I revert to some leather gloves that live in my shoulder bag or tool pouch. These tend to be cold though and distinctly non-waterproof.

My new balaclava will do well for neck coverage, although on milder days I'll stick to the ever-present buff. The shemagh will come out of the bag if the wind gets up or I need to wrap up well. Heat loss from the neck is only second to that of the head and I make sure this heat loss is kept to a minimum.

Two pairs of socks (thin under pair and outer wool) will finish off the clothes side. Wool socks are a must and as taught by the one and only Mors Kochanski, you can have 3 pairs of thick wool socks on at -30C in deep snow and no boots and you'd still be OK.

Pablo.

More On Winter Clothing

Carrying on from my last post about clothing and winter protection I'll continue the journey down from the head. The assumption is that I'll be getting out again before winter disappears.

Hats are no real problem. I bought the splendid possum fur/merino wool hat from Mears last year and it's absolutely great especially during the evenings around the fire. During the day, I prefer a peak, therefore I'll use my standard cap or a "Millets special" fleece lined cap with ear covers that I've had for a couple of years.

As last year (and the years before that) I'll continue the tried and tested method of layering. Last year I bought a WoolPower 200grm base-layer and that was a huge success for me. It was generally quite mild last year in the UK but even so, the temperature went down to -4C on one or two occasions while overnighting and I was grateful for the protection this garment gave me. The merino wool is designed to wick away sweat, which it does. The mid-layer is a reasonable quality thin fleece with the standard Swaandri on top of that. My Swaani is an older button up version. I'm tempted by Bison's Field Shirt which have received great reviews, but unfortunately at £75, I can't justify the cost when I've still got a servicable Swaandri.

 

The top layer will either be my SASS smock (don't be put off by the name; it's ventile (close weave cotton) in all but name and has nothing to do with the military) or my old, battered, trusted and favourite wax jacket. I bet I know what I'll revert to as the winter progresses!

I have a pair of Peter Storm Long Johns (WoolPower also do nice leggings) and didn't even put these on last year, so I'll stick with these just in case the temperature drops significantly and put some thicker surplus trousers over the top. But here's another solution for base-layer leg-wear. Ladies tights. Ask any self respecting infantryman and he will (in private) tell you that he has worn ladies tights or at least packed them in his bag at some stage during winter exercises.

During track and field training (many moons ago) us sprinters used these garments to great effect when training during the winter months to protect the delicate fast-twitch muscle fibres. So, come on guys; don't be shy...I won't tell if you won't! Just say, "They're for the wife" in the lingerie shop and ignore the all-knowing look from the shop assistant; or alternatively, raid the washing machine and blame it on the "sock-eating monster!" Stay away from fish-nets for obvious reasons. By the way, ladies tights make an excellent water filter and you can extend the life of premacs by quite a few uses.

Gloves are particularly important to me as I suffer from cold extremities. I picked up two pairs of Thinsulate fingerless gloves last year for £5-00 at the local market and I have seen them on Ebay for not much more. They are great for providing warmth but tend to fray quickly if you're working with wood. They are also a bit slippery if using tools. In this case I revert to some leather gloves that live in my shoulder bag or tool pouch. These tend to be cold though and distinctly non-waterproof.

My new balaclava will do well for neck coverage, although on milder days I'll stick to the ever-present buff. The shemagh will come out of the bag if the wind gets up or I need to wrap up well. Heat loss from the neck is only second to that of the head and I make sure this heat loss is kept to a minimum.

Two pairs of socks (thin under pair and outer wool) will finish off the clothes side. Wool socks are a must and as taught by the one and only Mors Kochanski, you can have 3 pairs of thick wool socks on at -30C in deep snow and no boots and you'd still be OK.

Pablo.

Project Number One - EKA Nordic W11

If you ask people who practice bushcraft or wilderness living what is the most essential item in their kit and they will invariably answer that it's their knife. Many people go to great lengths to select their knife and usually only a custom knife will do. Of course, selecting a knife is very much a personal preference and it depends on what you're going to use it for.

For me, the jury's still out. I'm not sure if I'm 100% happy with a single knife (see updated cutting tools pages). Perhaps I'm the sort of person to select whatever tool or combination is right for the occasion.

I  still haven't committed myself to an expensive custom knife and enjoy experimenting with the odd knife that comes my way. My latest addition to the family is an EKA Nordic W11. Ironically, this was the first knife I was going to purchase after my very first Frost's Clipper; but I decided to go for Phil Siddell's Companion Mark 2 instead. When I saw the EKA on Ebay,  I decided to go for it, winning the auction at just £47-50. They normally retail around £20 or £30 more (£68-00 from Heinnie Haynes)

The EKA Nordic Hunter W11 is Swedish made 8 7/8in. overall with a 4 3/8 inch drop point blade.  It's a full-length tang Sandvik 12C27 57-59 Rc out of 4mm with checkered Bubinga wood scales and lanyard hole.

I liked the shape of the knife from the start. Perhaps a 4mm thick 4 inch "all rounder" blade would, after all, be the most suitable general purpose knife for me. The reviews have been favourable and as a factory-made knife it's often compared to the Falkniven F1. The reviews threw up a few problems though, which prevented me from buying it in the first place. The first was the bevel and the second, the sheath.

When I received the knife I was delighted to notice that EKA had listened to feedback and had changed the sheath. Previous owners were bemoaning the fact that no matter how careful they were, the knife always cut the sheath when pulling out or putting away the knife. This must be a brand new version. Also it was obvious the knife has never been used. Chuffed.

 

Unfortunately the deep hollow grind with secondary bevel was still there. I'd read that this could be rectified with a little re-profiling and I was convinced that could do it! Of course, I'd do it my way, and not the recommended way with mouse mat and wet and dry. Out came the diamond hones and before long I was scrubbing away with the black coarse re-profiling hone throwing all caution to the wind. The aim was to extend the secondary bevel and then make it slightly convex...sort of! Not an easy task when you're leg is elevated in a plaster and you're using an upturned tea tray as a work-bench!

Quite a few hours later (actually many, many hours later) I had increased the original bevel size and there appeared to be a slight convex shape to the blade. I now worked my way down the hones to sharpen the edge, finishing off with a good strop.

Now I'm certainly not an expert and I'll have to give it a proper knife guru for them to tell me I've completely ruined it! Nevertheless it's now razor sharp. Whether it will stand up to a "bushcraft bashing" is another story, and of course, I won't be able to give a go for a few weeks yet.

The knife feels great in the hand. It has a nice weight to it, but not over heavy like some custom 4mm's I've handled (including the Woodlore). It fits my hand extremely well (I've got small hands) and I like the forefinger cut out and the serrated thumb grip on the spine. The handle is warm and I like the light checkered serrations on the lower part of the handle. Not bad so far.

As for performance, I can't say any more at the moment.

Needless to say, I enjoyed doing this little re-profiling task. Project Number One - done and dusted...Next!

Thanks for the visit,

Pablo.

Project Number One - EKA Nordic W11

If you ask people who practice bushcraft or wilderness living what is the most essential item in their kit and they will invariably answer that it's their knife. Many people go to great lengths to select their knife and usually only a custom knife will do. Of course, selecting a knife is very much a personal preference and it depends on what you're going to use it for.

For me, the jury's still out. I'm not sure if I'm 100% happy with a single knife (see updated cutting tools pages). Perhaps I'm the sort of person to select whatever tool or combination is right for the occasion.

I  still haven't committed myself to an expensive custom knife and enjoy experimenting with the odd knife that comes my way. My latest addition to the family is an EKA Nordic W11. Ironically, this was the first knife I was going to purchase after my very first Frost's Clipper; but I decided to go for Phil Siddell's Companion Mark 2 instead. When I saw the EKA on Ebay,  I decided to go for it, winning the auction at just £47-50. They normally retail around £20 or £30 more (£68-00 from Heinnie Haynes)

The EKA Nordic Hunter W11 is Swedish made 8 7/8in. overall with a 4 3/8 inch drop point blade.  It's a full-length tang Sandvik 12C27 57-59 Rc out of 4mm with checkered Bubinga wood scales and lanyard hole.

I liked the shape of the knife from the start. Perhaps a 4mm thick 4 inch "all rounder" blade would, after all, be the most suitable general purpose knife for me. The reviews have been favourable and as a factory-made knife it's often compared to the Falkniven F1. The reviews threw up a few problems though, which prevented me from buying it in the first place. The first was the bevel and the second, the sheath.

When I received the knife I was delighted to notice that EKA had listened to feedback and had changed the sheath. Previous owners were bemoaning the fact that no matter how careful they were, the knife always cut the sheath when pulling out or putting away the knife. This must be a brand new version. Also it was obvious the knife has never been used. Chuffed.

 

Unfortunately the deep hollow grind with secondary bevel was still there. I'd read that this could be rectified with a little re-profiling and I was convinced that could do it! Of course, I'd do it my way, and not the recommended way with mouse mat and wet and dry. Out came the diamond hones and before long I was scrubbing away with the black coarse re-profiling hone throwing all caution to the wind. The aim was to extend the secondary bevel and then make it slightly convex...sort of! Not an easy task when you're leg is elevated in a plaster and you're using an upturned tea tray as a work-bench!

Quite a few hours later (actually many, many hours later) I had increased the original bevel size and there appeared to be a slight convex shape to the blade. I now worked my way down the hones to sharpen the edge, finishing off with a good strop.

Now I'm certainly not an expert and I'll have to give it a proper knife guru for them to tell me I've completely ruined it! Nevertheless it's now razor sharp. Whether it will stand up to a "bushcraft bashing" is another story, and of course, I won't be able to give a go for a few weeks yet.

The knife feels great in the hand. It has a nice weight to it, but not over heavy like some custom 4mm's I've handled (including the Woodlore). It fits my hand extremely well (I've got small hands) and I like the forefinger cut out and the serrated thumb grip on the spine. The handle is warm and I like the light checkered serrations on the lower part of the handle. Not bad so far.

As for performance, I can't say any more at the moment.

Needless to say, I enjoyed doing this little re-profiling task. Project Number One - done and dusted...Next!

Thanks for the visit,

Pablo.

Edged Tools

I have a variety of cutting tools for various tasks. I'm not a collector and I don't go for expensive knives. I like a nice looking knife but that shouldn't detract from its function. I'm still experimenting and haven't yet found the ideal combination but have found that I use the following cutting tools for the tasks described on a fairly regular basis.

Frost Clipper - There's not many people who haven't started off with either a Mora or one of these Clippers. For £8 - £10 you can't go wrong. I don't use mine so much anymore but wouldn't hesitate using it again.

Companion Mk 2 This knife is a favourite general purpose knife and the only custom knife I've bought. It's in a popular UK bushcraft spearpoint or drop-point shape. This knife was made by Phil Siddell. The blade is 3mm thick and the blade is 3.5 inches long. This knife is a good general purpose and stands up well to batoning and other woodcraft tasks. I'm not sure about the large brass bolsters. I might take these off (if I can.)

Puuko This is a traditional Finnish all purpose knife in the traditional Puuko shape. The blade is not as wide as the Companion and therefore a little better for food preparation. It's not very heavy so not so good for heavy tasks. I take this knife if I'm taking an axe along with me on an excursion. The two complement each other well. 

Swiss Army Huntsman This knife is always on my belt. Of course it's more of a utility tool than a knife for heavy purpose use. The little saw is handy as is the awl. I'm not keen on using the blades as they're not locking blades, but they are handy for cutting string etc. 

Bahco Folding Saw This is an excellent piece of kit and I never leave home without it. It usually resides in my tool pack or shoulder bag. I tend to use this more than the axe for cutting green wood. 

Granfors Bruks Small Forest Axe I suppose this is the standard bushcraft axe. It's an ideal size for splitting small to medium sized logs for firewood. It's also not bad for doing a bit of initial carving work, although perhaps a bit heavy. For felling trees it is a little too small. I take this axe along if I know there's some log splitting to do. If not, it stays at home. 

Granfors Bruks mini hatchet I bought this hatchet as I wanted something small to pack away in my shoulder bag. It hasn't disappointed me and I use it for wood carving projects and chopping small dead wood for my wood burning stove. It's got that little extra weight to it more than a standard knife. A good little tool in my opinion. 

3 inch neck knife JoJo is the screen name of the person who made this knife purchased via Bearclaw Bushcraft. It's 3mm thick and even though the knife is small it feels good in the hand. It can cope with most utility tasks from food prep to small wood projects, even a bit of batoning. This knife formed part of my permanent neck carry but it is a little heavy for this.

Condor double-edged bill hook I use this tool only for conservation work, although I suspect it would be pretty good for bushcraft use. The thing that put me off is the size of the tool for bushcraft use. It not really user friendly either but great for slashing your way through overgrown areas. 

Martindale No2 Golok I've had this tool for many years. It great for soft undergrowth but for chopping and cutting wood perhaps not the best tool. I don't really bring this on too many trips. 

Cold Steel 16 inch Kukri/Machete I bought this before purchasing a proper Kukri and I'm pleased I did as I don't think the shape of the kukri is suitable for my use. Again I would say pretty good for clearing undergrowth but not really suitable for general bushcraft use. Others may disagree.

Leuku Puuku Combi - This is my current carry. The smaller puuku is from Jaavenpaa and is made of stainless steel. Excellent for those food prep jobs. The jaavenpaa leuku that originally came with the combi I found unsuitable as it was also stainless.It just wasn't tough enough for the job, so I purchased a 7 inch Stromeng version (middle). This was a better stell and so far up to the job. I had to tweak the sheath to make the Stromeng fit. I love the double sheath system.

Benchmade Snody Activator - This is a great little 2 1/2 inch neck knife made out of D2 steel made by Benchmade after a design by Mike Snody. It's a lovely fit in small hands and I love the serrated thumb grip which also helps strike a firesteel. Nice for little carving jobs. Again, a slightly annoying secondary bevel, but this one I can live with. The whole thing is nice and slim making it the perfect neck knife.

EKA Nordic W11 - This is a classic bushy shape and size (11cm) from 4mm steel made by the Swedes. The steel is Sandvik. I love the weight of the knife and shape of the handle; but I hate the grind, which is a deep hollow grind with a 20 degree secondary bevel. I'm following what most people do with these knives and attempting to put a convex grind on it. I've not had chance to test this out yet because of my AT injury. (Nov 2008) People but either have this or the Falkniven F1.

Edged Tools

I have a variety of cutting tools for various tasks. I'm not a collector and I don't go for expensive knives. I like a nice looking knife but that shouldn't detract from its function. I'm still experimenting and haven't yet found the ideal combination but have found that I use the following cutting tools for the tasks described on a fairly regular basis.

Frost Clipper - There's not many people who haven't started off with either a Mora or one of these Clippers. For £8 - £10 you can't go wrong. I don't use mine so much anymore but wouldn't hesitate using it again.

Companion Mk 2 This knife is a favourite general purpose knife and the only custom knife I've bought. It's in a popular UK bushcraft spearpoint or drop-point shape. This knife was made by Phil Siddell. The blade is 3mm thick and the blade is 3.5 inches long. This knife is a good general purpose and stands up well to batoning and other woodcraft tasks. I'm not sure about the large brass bolsters. I might take these off (if I can.)

Puuko This is a traditional Finnish all purpose knife in the traditional Puuko shape. The blade is not as wide as the Companion and therefore a little better for food preparation. It's not very heavy so not so good for heavy tasks. I take this knife if I'm taking an axe along with me on an excursion. The two complement each other well. 

Swiss Army Huntsman This knife is always on my belt. Of course it's more of a utility tool than a knife for heavy purpose use. The little saw is handy as is the awl. I'm not keen on using the blades as they're not locking blades, but they are handy for cutting string etc. 

Bahco Folding Saw This is an excellent piece of kit and I never leave home without it. It usually resides in my tool pack or shoulder bag. I tend to use this more than the axe for cutting green wood. 

Granfors Bruks Small Forest Axe I suppose this is the standard bushcraft axe. It's an ideal size for splitting small to medium sized logs for firewood. It's also not bad for doing a bit of initial carving work, although perhaps a bit heavy. For felling trees it is a little too small. I take this axe along if I know there's some log splitting to do. If not, it stays at home. 

Granfors Bruks mini hatchet I bought this hatchet as I wanted something small to pack away in my shoulder bag. It hasn't disappointed me and I use it for wood carving projects and chopping small dead wood for my wood burning stove. It's got that little extra weight to it more than a standard knife. A good little tool in my opinion. 

3 inch neck knife JoJo is the screen name of the person who made this knife purchased via Bearclaw Bushcraft. It's 3mm thick and even though the knife is small it feels good in the hand. It can cope with most utility tasks from food prep to small wood projects, even a bit of batoning. This knife formed part of my permanent neck carry but it is a little heavy for this.

Condor double-edged bill hook I use this tool only for conservation work, although I suspect it would be pretty good for bushcraft use. The thing that put me off is the size of the tool for bushcraft use. It not really user friendly either but great for slashing your way through overgrown areas. 

Martindale No2 Golok I've had this tool for many years. It great for soft undergrowth but for chopping and cutting wood perhaps not the best tool. I don't really bring this on too many trips. 

Cold Steel 16 inch Kukri/Machete I bought this before purchasing a proper Kukri and I'm pleased I did as I don't think the shape of the kukri is suitable for my use. Again I would say pretty good for clearing undergrowth but not really suitable for general bushcraft use. Others may disagree.

Leuku Puuku Combi - This is my current carry. The smaller puuku is from Jaavenpaa and is made of stainless steel. Excellent for those food prep jobs. The jaavenpaa leuku that originally came with the combi I found unsuitable as it was also stainless.It just wasn't tough enough for the job, so I purchased a 7 inch Stromeng version (middle). This was a better stell and so far up to the job. I had to tweak the sheath to make the Stromeng fit. I love the double sheath system.

Benchmade Snody Activator - This is a great little 2 1/2 inch neck knife made out of D2 steel made by Benchmade after a design by Mike Snody. It's a lovely fit in small hands and I love the serrated thumb grip which also helps strike a firesteel. Nice for little carving jobs. Again, a slightly annoying secondary bevel, but this one I can live with. The whole thing is nice and slim making it the perfect neck knife.

EKA Nordic W11 - This is a classic bushy shape and size (11cm) from 4mm steel made by the Swedes. The steel is Sandvik. I love the weight of the knife and shape of the handle; but I hate the grind, which is a deep hollow grind with a 20 degree secondary bevel. I'm following what most people do with these knives and attempting to put a convex grind on it. I've not had chance to test this out yet because of my AT injury. (Nov 2008) People but either have this or the Falkniven F1.

Adapt and Overcome (By Buying Stuff)

Firstly, thank you all for your kind comments about the injury. Honestly, I was overwhelmed.

To answer some questions in bulk - yes, that was a deer staring at me. Can't you see it grinning? Yes, the demi-john is full of gin (summer fruits mix). Yes, my legs are scary - however they have beaten Kriss Akabusi (on one occasion!)

This is the last post about the injury except perhaps to update on progress every now and again. I'll get back to the outdoors posts -from indoors (if you see what I mean) next time.

The treatment plan is to keep the foot in plaster for 2-weeks. It's got to be elevated at all times and no pressure on the foot. The foot was angled downwards with toes pointing to the floor before the plaster was put on (that smarted) so it's almost impossible to put the foot down anyway.

Every two weeks the foot will be lifted, re-positioned (looking forward to that) and re-plastered until on the sixth week it will be in its normal position. At this time or shortly after it should be able to bear weight and then the physiotherapy can be started.

I found a Mountain Bike forum which charted the same injury for two of its members and found some very useful information. The worst fear is a re-rupture, which actually happened to one of the members. Unfortunately, this is a pretty common occurrence. The message put across was not to rush things, take it easy and don't start your activity too soon. It's only after 9 months (!) that you can safely carry out intensive activity. I think wandering in the woods won't count as intensive activity, but I'm still going to have to be extremely careful walking up hills on uneven ground, carrying weight and of course slipping and stumbling.

The Achilles tendon is the longest and strongest tendon in the body. It is prone to damage because of the stresses and strains put on it. I'm not surprised if my previous years of intensive track and field competition haven't weakened it somewhat. Unfortunately, this is an injury which probably takes the longest time to heal.

So what have I been doing? As the swelling subsided, the pain got a bit worse, but it seems ok now. I don't really like taking tablets but found that Paracetamol and Ibrobrufen taken together is a very effective pain-killer (as recommended by the hospital.)

I've started to exercise the rest of my body (no use letting the rest of it waste away) but no 'shrafting projects as yet except the odd bit of knife sharpening.  I've been looking at leather work stuff, but I'm not sure how to go about it. I'm going to have to seek advice from the leatherwork gurus on the forums.

Getting around is a pain but already I've adapted by thinking like you do in the outdoors. The key is to be organised. I've got a shoulder bag to put all the things I normally leave laying about the house (phone, book, pipe, lighter, sweets.) I also make a flask of tea in the morning (saves spilling cups when hopping about!) Mrs P didn't allow me to set up a Trangia in the lounge. Lunchtime sandwiches are also stored in the shoulder bag.

I can see this is injury is going to be expensive. I've already bought knife on Ebay since being off. It's just a comfort purchase to make me feel better - you know how it is ;)

All the best,

Pablo.